Trip Take: Deer Valley
A View from the Hill: Deer Valley
For several years, Mark and a group of local friends enjoyed annual, long weekend “Guys Trips” to some amazing ski locations (Park City, Vail, Telluride, and more). This season, the kid-free ski trip itinerary included both a trip for dads and one for moms. We scheduled our two trips on consecutive March weekends. The moms headed out first-- to Deer Valley.
Our group of five included one beginner second-timer and four blue-black skiers. We picked Deer Valley for its reputation for excellent grooming, its long blue cruisers, AND because it’s just a quick 45-minute jaunt from the Salt Lake City airport. (This is, to me, a major selling point of Utah skiing.) We’d also heard of several luxurious, on-mountain après options that sounded worth exploring.
Travel
All group members began from homes in the same Chicago suburb but traveled to Salt Lake on two flights: two flew United, departing from O’Hare, and three flew Southwest, departing from Midway. Both flights were on-time and uneventful, and the two sets of skis and boots we checked on Southwest arrived without incident.
Our rental minivan had a few quirks but delivered us safely to our Park City condo. We’d ordered our groceries ahead and found them waiting on arrival. In retrospect, shopping on our way into town from the airport (or picking up groceries) would have been a better option. (Two grocery stores are located just off the highway exit into Park City.) When we return to Deer Valley in the future, we’ll likely go this route. Delivery was a little pricey.
So. Much. Snow.
Lodging
We booked our ski-in/ski-out condo at Ridgepoint through VRBO. At the beginning of each ski day, we walked across the parking lot and clicked into our skis on Ridgepoint trail, which took us downhill across two small bridges and right onto the mountain. The run from condo to base was do-able for all but our beginner skier, who started her days with a quick drive to Snow Park.
Finding a ski-in/out property at Deer Valley was a luxury for a bunch of moms used to schlepping family ski equipment. It eliminated constant loading and unloading of the car and fretting over parking availability. Given 2023’s astonishing snowfall, our greatest challenge was fighting through the massive drifts of Wasatch powder to gain access to the ski-on trail. Once we’d accomplished this, we could sail straight onto Deer Valley’s untracked, cake-frosting corduroy every morning before the lifts started spinning. The route home was even simpler. Deer Valley does offer free overnight ski storage at its Snow Park base, but due to our condo’s location, we didn’t take davantage. It would be a MAJOR perk, though, for those without direct access to the snow.
Our condo had everything we needed: three bedrooms (one king, and two with bunks) plus two bathrooms on the lower level, a large kitchen and living area on the main floor, and a large (mostly unused) loft up above. If we’d had a few kids in tow (or even another adult), it would have been simple to add an air mattress or two. The furniture was comfortable, and we had our own private après hot tub. Given that pricing at Deer Valley can be eye-watering, our lodging was quite reasonable considering how close we were to the snow. I’ve already rented an identical unit in the same complex for a two-family trip next season.
Another Beautiful Day!
The Mountain
Deer Valley’s multiple peaks are connected by an efficient lift system with plenty of redundancy. I found the resort very easy to navigate even though none of the skiers in our group had visited before. Often, when a resort has multiple base areas, it seems to put all its resources and development into one while neglecting other more “satellite” outposts. This can create too much strain on a single base location (think long lift lines and hefty restaurant waits).
Deer Valley has two major base areas: Snow Park, where the bulk of skiers arrive at the mountain, and Silver Lake, located further up. Because Silver Lake contains many of its own dining and retail options and efficient lifts accessing Bald Mountain (skier’s left) and Flagstaff Mountain (skier’s right), most skiers won’t need to ski all the way down to the base until they’re done for the day. In this way, the robustness of Silver Lake takes heat off Snow Park, making both areas more enjoyable all day long. Snow Park is also home to Deer Valley’s learning area, so managing skier traffic there is especially important. For those looking for even easier parking and mountain access, park at the Jordanelle gondola base. Though it’s over 20 minutes from Snow Park by car, the trip to the heart of the resort on skis is much quicker (and manageable for all but beginner skiers).
We had a fantastic time skiing Deer Valley. Throughout the weekend, we covered tons of territory, skiing multiple trails from nearly every peak and really enjoying the town and mountain.
Sunny Days and Great Company
Highlights Included
Skiing down to Snow Park every morning on Success (green) and Last Chance (blue). I’d never been on a freshly groomed trail before the lifts started spinning. (It’s tough to be first in line while wrangling kids, negotiating ski school dropoff, etc.) There’s something really special about leaving first tracks on buttery corduroy! Portions of our route were sprinkled with pine groves, which made it even more idyllic. The mountain was quiet, and the moose we spotted on a neighboring trail one morning was core memory material.
The long blues on Baldy (Keno, Nabob, etc.) were extra fun, though the constant dumps of fresh powder throughout our stay (not complaining) did make for some crowding there. The mountain does a good job of leaving powder for those who enjoy it, though on main thoroughfares like these, it’s tracked out quickly. While Deer Valley isn’t generally a top destination for powderhounds, I’ve heard that great stashes exist if you know where to look. (We didn’t).
The many blues of Bald Eagle and Flagstaff Mountains would be enough to keep skiers like us entertained for a long weekend all on their own.
The end of our first ski day found us exploring downtown Park City in our ski boots, heading first to the liquor store and then to one of Park City’s many ski bars, Flanagan’s. The atmosphere was casual, the live music was terrible, and our fellow patrons were good conversationalists. When we’d drunk our fill, we grabbed a couple of (very good) pizzas at Davanza’s and headed home to enjoy them.
The margs and Mexican at Tekila in downtown Park City made for a satisfying meal.
The après and dining scene on-mountain, though spendy, did not disappoint. We closed out one of our early ski days with a bottle of champagne and some cocktails at the St. Regis. It’s easy to access the St. Regis on skis, but visitors can also take advantage of the hotel’s funicular from the Snow Park parking lot.
We visited the Montage for a quick and delicious arrival day meal at their subterranean Daly’s Pub and Rec (which also boasts a quartet of bowling alleys and a variety of arcade games). We visited again at night for delicious fireside drinks in their gorgeous lobby, complete with live music. These relaxing cocktails were the prelude to a hilarious trek through knee-high drifts to our planned Fireside Dinner at Deer Valley’s Empire Canyon Lodge. (Fireside Dining is perhaps worth doing once, but I wouldn’t do it again. The raclette would have been enough for me on its own.)
While I can’t report on the après and dining options at Stein Eriksen Lodge (though I’ve heard they’re wonderful), I can tell you that my massage at their spa was the best I’ve ever had. We saved our spa visit until the end of our trip and walked over to Cena for a delicious Italian dinner on our last night. Given the option to cook at home or dine out, we moms consistently chose the latter. I don’t think any of us regrets that choice.
Wrap Up
In the end, when a bunch of women used to skiing and vacationing with their kids are lucky enough to take a turn without little ones in tow, everything about the trip—from the length and character of ski days, to après, to lodging, to meal time—looks a little different. When I return to Deer Valley with my kids, I suspect it’ll be a little less “Montage” and a little more “spaghetti at home.” I’m great with that, but I sure did enjoy these few fancy days with good friends.
